Evolution print

Evolution print

Printers don’t print on anything less then 70 g paper

print up to 450g

gloss, silk, uncoated

uncoated: images are flatter, images aren’t as sharp, tiny amount of bleed makes it look more organic. Uncoated stock bulks up more then silk. Gloss feels thin, same for silk. Even when they’re all the same weight. 

8 a5 leaflets on a a2 sheet. 

Litho print is better quality, but is more expensive. 

S0a3

Full colour spot colour vs pure spot colour is very different. 

If your using spot colour, Use the same paper or the effect will be different. 

Costed per sheet, click charge. 5-10p for 1 colour sheet. 30p for 4 colour sheet. 60p roughly per both sides.  (a4)

Litho comes in handy because it’s a lot cheaper in the long run. 

one set of full colour would be like £100?

make readys are the run/ inking before print. this is in the cost too.

mistakes not to make:

Bleed, always have a bleed. 3mm. crop marks, etc.

send with ticks.

don’t send 8 business cards on one page. one card at a time.

Don’t send spreads, send single pages.

Send over the artwork for the cover so it can be altered if it needs to. 

Send pdf’s and the original artwork. just for tweaking when it comes to machine setups.

If spot colours are in the artwork and not needed. Send them as CMYK.

set spot colours to overprint

Any perforations, foil. they need to be setup as an overprint as a spot colour in a separate file. 

Image sizes, don’t use massive pictures in tiny spaces.

Make images 300dpi and the image they will be when printed. 

16 pages to a s0a2 pages. 

work in 16’s 8’s or 32’s

If it’s in 4’s it’s gonna be an excess of paper you will lbw charged for.

Make the cover the same stock as the inside.

If you don’t need to do 4 colours do 2 it’s cheaper and it can look nice. 

Will you see the benefit of stocks when they’re covered in ink. 

Work & turn Mirrored.

Modernist, manchester. 

use tints to make it look like a slight coloured stock. 10% yellow etc.

exposed binding.

creative arthur

passport

mull binding

Design for Print: Book binding prototyping

I had perfect binding in mind as it interested me, It seemed really fitting as a method to do to make a book that would give me flexibility and a backup and it's be a lot more repairable if I was able to change individual signatures instead of a full spread that'd be sewn into the book. 

I was partly inspired by Craig Oldham's book (format not design), simply because It did offer me option to make a book that would show physical substance, and the book would be a lot more resilient to damage compared to a paper book like my previous products I've made which become dog eared.

I made a paper option during the mocking up of my mount board prototype as a back-up for if the idea didn't go through I still had an escape plan.

I chopped up some spare mount-board to create as my first mock-up using perfect binding.

And along with that at the same time to streamline the process, I cut up from paper, the difference being that I had to have grey-board stuck to either side to protect the paper due to it been much weaker in comparison to mount board.

Books in the clamps with their PVA applied and ready to be covered with scrim.

More clamping.

Th

As the plain paper one required a cover I decided to just cover it really simply for the time being as it was a prototype. I wasn't to bothered about this for now as I was more interested in how the paper reacted when it was bound.

The pages in this book turn really nice, the only down side is that it doesn't lay down flat which would be a really nice aspect to the book I would like to have. It seems a lot more fragile compared to mount board one however, simply because the paper has less surface area to be glued down by.

I applied some buckrum to the spine, but then i realised I couldn't really do this for the final thing because It would be hard to find a match for the colours I'd be printing with. Sarah in Rossington street suggested putting Acrylic paint into the PVA which is used and applied on the spine area and as well on top of the scrim.

Creative Suite Session 3: Indesign

Setup bleeds, discuss with the printer so you know how much to place. 3mm is the normal amount to apply onto a document.

The Slug are is something that would be cut off later. Can be used to indicate where folds can go.

You would use facing pages for when creating spreads.

Start page no. is the page which when it comes to auto numbering the pages is the one that would be first.

Indesign's swatch palette is a whole load simpler then the one present in Adobe illustrator and Adobe Photoshop.

In indesign also uses the universal colour changer by default unlike Illustrator where the setting has to be activated, changing any of the default colours will change the colour as it's seen when preview is checked and it will change all objects using that colour. The above was Cyan before i moved the sliders.

Tints work the same however, it's also easier to create tint swatches, for on indesign there is a menu option at the top right of the swatch bar to make use off while this isn't present within Illustrator.

It's also much easier to select pantone colours from the swatch menu, this also then is applied to the tint if that is the colour that has been changed.

Pantone CMYK + (Coated/uncoated) colours aren't spot colours, they are still printed with CMYK colours. 

Dragging in the duo-tone image into indesign brings up the two spot colours that are gonna be used to create this image. This is one way to make sure that it's gonna be printed using two colours when it's taken to the printers.

Photoshop print considerations:

1: CMYK

2: Image prepared at actual size.

3: Resolution (300dpi)

4: Save as a tiff. / PSD. file. (Photoshop files have alpha channels and allows for transparency.)

Illustrator print considerations:

1. CMYK or Spot colours

2. AI. File / Can copy and paste from Illustrator to Indesign.

moire

OUGD504: initial mocking up

With my scramps and sketches drawn up i feel comfortable in being able to start mocking up my website ready for the progress crit. 

I love how these turned out, they have a great presence, they remind me of old time game pieces which is good in a way because this is the look i'm trying to achieve with the website. I'm not wanting to create something that is too gambly looking but at the same time I want it to be associated with games in one way or another. 

I'll be going with the design above for the design of the website, it's the strongest one out of the lot it, the use of the cards as the main centre piece will work well on multiple platforms especially if their big they'd be great on a ipad.

Game page

Categories

Catergories

I'd like the bottom of this page to have slightly peaking out cards so it entices you to start scrolling down instead of indicating otherwise.

I started with basic shapes in illustrator building up from the navigation bar then working down.

I didn't like the floating navigation bar however so i changed it to a solid white top, i thought this would be easier to manage when it comes to creating my containers and all the rest of it.

I liked having the bit in the middle just a little bit higher to draw your attention to where it was on the page, along with that I really liked how the white lines helped as well, which were by accident. oops. But it looks good nether the less! I'm quite happy with the way it's looking here.

 I experimented how else this could be taken, with patterned side bars due to the white line, but ultimately I still preferred the 2nd one i created. the white backgrounded one was simply too plain and the one below to over the top.